My time in Japan, while brief and limited in scope, was a mix of sensory chaos and serenity. From towering buildings boasting neon retail shop signs reaching toward the heavens to tranquil forests protecting Shinto shrines, from the noticeable lack of litter despite not finding a trash can in sight to a late-night casino culture that doesn't solicit or invite tourists, from waiting in a single-file line to enter a train (shhh no talking) to the immeasurably kind and attentive hospitality you're guaranteed just about anywhere. It's like nothing I've ever experienced in all my years of traveling. Please enjoy the musings, recollections, and ramblings of what was only my first full day in Japan.
The benefit of traveling for twenty-eight hours with a thirteen-hour time differential is that you manage to go to bed at a reasonable local time and wake up feeling moderately on schedule. This isn't to say that jet lag didn't try and settle in but it certainly didn't incapacitate our ability to explore without the grogginess of having been wide awake in the middle of the night. This was especially favorable at mealtimes, allowing us to indulge appropriately and with abandon.
Speaking of satiating cravings, I'd like to note that all the rumors are true! Vending machines and convenience stores are as big of a deal as travelers before have claimed. I will shamelessly admit to enjoying a convenience store, egg sandwich on white bread, with the crusts cut off, every single day while in Japan! Sometimes these were purchased and enjoyed in the moment and other times, squirreled away in our hotel fridge, just in case one of us got hungry and needed to curb the hangry beast that can ruin a good time. And while I tried to keep the tradition alive when we got to South Korea, Japan had them beat in quality of white, fluffy, soft bread.
Something else I found extremely interesting was if you purchased a bottle of hot tea (not a cup of hot tea) from a convenience store display or a vending machine it was hot to drink! I've only ever known bottled tea to be sold cold. It was even more of a sensory trip as it was purchased in the refrigerated section of the Family Mart convenience store. The last thing I'll mention is the ability to purchase a juice box of sake for the equivalent of $1 USD. Because just yes! Heart eyes emoji.
As a solo traveler with a limited budget and coming from a small town, my twenty-two-year-old self shied away from big cities, less out of caution for safety but mostly due to expense. Now, twenty-two years later and having lived and worked in one of the most recognized big cities in the world, I felt drawn to the vibrancy and over-the-top, in-your-face exuberance that Tokyo, specifically the Shinjuku neighborhood offered. At first glance, it may feel disjointed, brash, and too loud, but look closer and you'll see there is an etiquette, beauty, and order to everything. Tokyo trained me to look both up and down for nothing here is wasted, be that in structure or service, emulating the Shinto virtue of "Magokoro" (sincere heart).
Situated a short walk between Shinjuku to Shibuya is the Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine nestled in a stunning forest in the heart of these two neon districts. Shinto is Japan's ancient and original religion and is deeply rooted in the Japanese way of life. Shinto has no founder, no holy book, and doesn't even hint at religious conversion, instead, Shinto values harmony with nature and the virtues of a sincere heart. The forest at Meiji Jingu was created with the donation of 100,000 trees from all over Japan, planted by young volunteers. The Meiji Jingu shrine and forest were established to commemorate the virtues of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken in November 1920.
Exiting the forest you may find yourself in the vibrant neighborhood of Shibuya, home to the exciting shopping district of Harajuku. No visit is complete without a walk down Takeshita Street. Best not to be in a hurry here as there's a lot to take in. Among all the cutting-edge J-Pop and teenage fashion culture you'll also find a plethora of vintage shops selling overpriced used Levi's, concert t-shirts, and rayon duds in all colors and prints. Don't expect to find any thrift shop steals though, as what's old is new, on-trend, and expensive!
When your wallet needs a break and your belly needs some fuel, seek out the always busy, efficient, and uber-delicious, Ichiran Ramen. This ramen chain is ideal for a solo traveler! After queuing, first along the opposite side of the sidewalk, then down the stairs, and finally inside the small vestibule, you'll order your ramen experience from one of two vending machines. Once your ticket prints and you confirm your order with the host, you'll be brought to your cubicle, partitioned with pony walls to your left and right and a bamboo screen drawn down in front of you. Essentially the restaurant kitchen is in the center and all single-stool cubbies face inward. Your order gets sent to the kitchen and as your food is prepared, your screen is raised by kitchen staff, food and drink are placed inside your cubby, then the bamboo curtain is drawn down again. There is a water spigot available for self-service water and additional 'extra order' sheets hanging within your cubby if you'd like to add on to your order. The entire process is efficient yet unhurried and did I mention delicious?
When the siren song of a jet lag nap calls, take it, for you'll want extra energy to roam the Golden Gai and karaoke late into the night. The roughly two hundred wooden structured Izakaya's (pub/eatery) that make up the Golden Gai measure only about one hundred and forty-two feet in size and pepper the six narrow alleys. Most izakaya's specialize in one thing whether it's tempura, noodles, sake, or skewers though where you find alcohol available, you will also find food. Meandering through here feels like stepping back in time and while not all izakayas within the Golden Gai welcome foreigners, many do.
Be sure to check if the izakaya requires a cash cover for entry, usually noted on a sign outside the door, and don't expect an English-speaking staff (usually the owners) or credit cards to be accepted. Part of the fun of traveling is to bumble through the language barriers. Be brave! Peek your head inside and ask, or gesture appropriately if there's room for you and you might just be pleasantly surprised to have a space created for you to squeeze in and enjoy a house specialty. And when you're thoroughly nourished both food and drink, seek out a karaoke room and sing until the sun comes up! Tokyo is a late-night culture, so embrace the night. Kanpai!
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