Growing up, my father would take me on mystery trips. They usually involved a unique or unexpected experience, like eating alligator tail at the Lone Cabbage Fish Camp coupled with an airboat ride, or driving through the citrus groves of rural Florida and ending up signing up for hang gliding lessons.
While they didn’t always result in an exotic experience, mystery trips with my dad are still my favorite. They rarely involve directional intention but are always sojourned with a spirit of: “let’s see what we discover”.
My husband on the other hand isn’t known for mystery trips, but when inspiration strikes, he is a master at surprises. So, when he asked if I was available at 5 PM on Friday and wouldn’t elaborate, of course, I said “yes!”
That was on a Monday.
I attempted to guess what we were doing through Tuesday evening before I resigned to settle into the mystery of it all. What he alluded to was that an element of food would be involved (though I suspected that wasn’t the main focus), the experience would last between 60 - 90 minutes, and it was only available for three days in NYC.
I spent the rest of the week looking forward to Friday.
One PATH ride into Manhattan and two MTA subway transfers back out, we arrived in Greenpoint, the northernmost neighborhood in the NYC borough of Brooklyn, with about an hour to kill. Brooklyn has a reputation that precedes it and with good reason. Tucked in and around you’ll find secret worlds packed with the next up-and-coming something or someone. Greenpoint remains very industrial. Old factories and warehouses wrap around you here, their brick facades holding histories while creating new narratives. The air tastes faintly of metal and machinery.
As we strode between the auto mechanic and production studio warehouses, I sought clues as to what we might be about to experience. There was not a hint in sight. This was not a stretch of industrial that hinted at a sexy underbelly of entertainment, what you saw seemed to be what you got.
At one point we came across a larger-than-life-size mechanical gear and my husband exclaimed “This is perfect!” I knew that exclamation contained a clue but still could not fathom what it was.
It wasn’t until I saw two people, looking more fashionable than what the immediate surroundings demanded, disappear into a building that I thought we might have reached our destination. Yet, standing in front of the storefront, with no obvious signage, I still could not make sense of what we were about to experience, the neon logo containing no hint that I could recognize. Until I opened the front door.
Once inside, it all clicked into place, much like the gear we saw earlier. In that moment I understood my husband's excitement not only at what we were about to enjoy but also the general setting of the neighborhood where it was located.
Seongsu-dong: The Brooklyn of Seoul
Earlier this year, my husband and I traveled to Japan, Taiwan, and South Korea. Our time in South Korea was brief and based on some locals' advice, we spent the majority of our five days in Seoul. Leading up to our trip, we watched every episode of Midnight Asia on Netflix, where we were introduced to the ancient Korean rice liquor, makgeolli (pronounced mahk-goh-lee, like "broccoli").
As someone who worked in the craft beer industry for five years and is a self-proclaimed sake connoisseur, I was excited to try this ancient elixir that is enjoying a retro revival among young brewers.
It’s hard to describe the flavor of makgeolli. It’s not like sake, even though it’s also made from rice. It has a sweet tang to it and depending on which one you try, it can run the gamut of mouthfeel and flavor profile. Makgeolli is slightly effervescent and is traditionally served in tin bowls which create a reaction similar to ginger beer in a Moscow mule.
Most restaurants and dining stalls serve makgeolli and it usually comes in a 750 mL bottle. You can even find it at 7-Eleven or other convenience stores. You will most certainly get a nod of approval from the locals if you order this with your meal!
On our last full day in Seoul, my husband and I decided to find the craft makgeolli brewery we saw on Midnight Asia, as we had not seen their bottles to purchase in any shops. To be fair, it was the only craft brand we had knowledge of. From where we were staying in the Ghanshan district, we made our way by train to Seongsu-dong, a neighborhood located across the Hangang River in eastern Seoul to find and try the featured makgeolli from Hangang Brewery.
Sometimes referred to as the Brooklyn of Seoul, Seongsu-dong is considered Seoul’s primary manufacturing district, a prime example of old world meets modern. Against a backdrop of industrial buildings, you'll find young adults in futuristic fashions forming lines outside vintage shops while sipping craft cold brews. Handmade leather purses line shop windows, their fabricator and owner ringing up your purchase. Cobblers sit in makeshift huts between intersections ready to mend your shoes. While around the next corner, you’ll marvel at the glass design of a Dior building and see a line of patrons waiting for entry to explore a new subterranean luxury shop. It was easy to make the comparison to Brooklyn.
As we followed the Naver map directions, venturing deeper into the heart of the Seongsu-dong neighborhood, the swirl of sounds began to fade. Rather quickly we realized we were the only non-locals (and kind of loved knowing that) though no one gave us a second glance. Eventually, we arrived at Hangang Brewery.
You know when you have a picture in your mind of how something will look but you’re completely wrong? This was that sort of moment. Marked only by name on glass doors, we were a little disappointed not to find anyone to help us learn more. After popping upstairs and peeking our heads into what was clearly a distribution office, we accepted that this was not going to be the craft taproom tasting experience we had hoped for.
In the end, we never tried makgeolli from Hangang Brewery. Try as we might, we weren't able to source it, but we still enjoyed the hunt.
A Sip of History: The Journey of Sool and Makgeolli
Sool, the umbrella term for traditional Korean alcoholic beverages, has a rich history dating back over a thousand years. Makgeolli, with its milky appearance and slightly tangy, sweet flavor, has been a staple in Korean culture for centuries. Historically, it was enjoyed by farmers after a long day in the fields, and its low alcohol content made it a communal drink.
However, like many traditional practices, the popularity of sool waned as Korea modernized and globalized. Fast forward to today, and there's a remarkable resurgence of interest in these age-old brews. This renaissance is fueled by a growing appreciation for artisanal and craft beverages worldwide. Korea's craft makgeolli scene is buzzing with innovative brewers who are reimagining this ancient drink for modern palates.
Among the domestic trailblazers are Alice Jun and John Limb, the dynamic duo behind Hana Makgeolli, the first craft makgeolli brewers in the United States. Blending tradition with innovation Hanna Makgeolli strives to create a beverage that transcends cultural boundaries. The brewery in Greenpoint is a testament to their dedication, a space where tradition meets modernity, much like the neighborhood itself.
Mystery Trip Revealed
As I pushed the door open and the gears clicked into place, I understood my husband's giddiness and earlier exclamation of “This is perfect!” Walking inside Hana Makgeolli felt like completing the craft circle we couldn’t in Seoul.
In my experience, culturally traditional beverages tend to be best introduced through food. Hana Makgeolli is no exception, each brew a perfect accompaniment to savory and spicier foods. While we didn’t get to try Hana Makgeolli’s everyday Korean dining menu on this visit, we were treated to a collaborative dining experience from Los Angeles’ Korean culinary powerhouse, Soban.
Featuring signature dishes like their soy-marinated raw crab (ganjang gejang)—which is what my husband was most excited to try—and spicy braised chicken (dak-bokkeum-tang), which was my favorite, we could almost imagine we were back in South Korea!
If you can’t make the trip to South Korea, take two trains to Greenpoint and stop by Hana Makgeolli. If the intent is to create a sense of community around makgeolli then Hana Makgeolli is upholding its promise, inviting people from all walks of life to experience the magic of this traditional Korean beverage.
It's not just a drink; it's a journey through time, tradition, and taste.
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